Final day – Santiago

The final – and non-cycling – day is always hard to document, and particularly so as this is the fourth time that I’ve done essentially the same things. But that is not to say that it hasn’t been a delight: of course it has, because this is Santiago de Compostela, which is full of happy pilgrims, beautiful sites, and wonderful food.

Day 17 – Lalin to Santiago (55km but I think it was more…)

I made it! And yes, I do feel an enormous sense of achievement – it’s just such a very, very long way! And it’s been exactly the right amount of time – I could really feel myself slowing towards the end, Zeno’s Paradox style (a miracle I made it over the line…), and I think that is only partly psychological.

Day 16 – Ourense to Lalin (63km, allegedly)

Today was a day of what might be termed false summits: just when I thought that the problems were behind me, another one presented itself. There again, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger etc etc – and within half an hour of arrival at the hotel I was a New Woman, thanks to a hot bath, serious stretching, and cricket…

Day 15 – Laza to Ourense (60ish km)

Today wasn’t the total weather washout that I’d feared – indeed, I woke to the sun, just over the horizon, finding its way under the cloud that was overhead. But by the time I set off at 8 (delayed, because of the extra faff involved in sorting everything into plastic bags in case the panniers leak), it was starting to rain – so I used this as the final excuse I needed to remain on the road for the long haul (about 450m) up to the top. The Camino path itself is apparently steep – and the idea of wet, slippery rocks didn’t appeal…

Day 14 – Lubian to Laza (60km)

I’ve made it to Galicia! Province of cemeteries that are full of little houses, of towns beginning ‘O’, of walls made of ancient end-on paving slabs, and of ever-increasing numbers of crucieros (although I haven’t yet seen a horreo – maybe tomorrow!). The day started well, with free toast and coffee from the hotel and an instruction that if anything went awry before A Gudina (when I would finally get some cash!), I was to call him.

Day 13 – Puebla de Sanabria to Lubian (33km)

I got up late: it was a short day’s ride after yesterday’s marathon, so I treated myself to a good breakfast at the hotel (“free for you!”, the proprietress said – a pilgrim benefit?) and popped up the hill to see if the church was open. It wasn’t – even at 9am on a Sunday. One does wonder if it’s ever open…

Day 12 – Tabara to Puebla de Sanabria (93km)

Thanks to a hotel unbooking me a few days ago, today has been a mammoth ride: 93km rather than the 63km that I originally expected. But in fact my new destination, Puebla de Sanabria, is significantly nicer than Mombuey would have been – I’m writing this from a bar perched on the town walls, with a view of the castle and the hills (photo).

Day 11 – Zamora to Tabara (65km)

Every day should begin with an absolutely epic breakfast buffet – more than worth the hour later start… The day was a pretty steady ride – beginning running next to the big intercity train line (I didn’t see any trains, but at least there was the promise of them, unlike on the local line, which felt like it last saw a train in about 1990). A huge modern bridge over the line gave me my last look back to the hill that gave me my first view of Salamanca – an eternity ago.

Day 10 – Salamanca to Zamora (67km)

Day 10, and I’m well over half way through, at least according to this map… I’m currently looking out of my hotel window at the city walls of Zamora, with the moon rising. *Why* is this part of Spain not overrun with tourists? It should be, but I’m glad it isn’t!

Day 9-and-a-half – rest day in Salamanca

Today has been a lovely day off seeing the sights of Salamanca, which I’d anticipated, and also spending lots of time with some excellent fellow pilgrims, which I hadn’t. (The photos is my “I’ve made it half way” smile / publicity shot!)